Wednesday, January 4, 2017

When Will Spring Planting Season Arrive?



If you're a star watcher, you could have breathed a sigh of relief on December 25th when the days started getting longer for the third day in a row. Three of a thing is a pattern and that means we can expect longer days and warmer weather. That's how primitive man may have reckoned, anyway; of course, we modern people know better. Because of the 23.5 degree tilt of the Earth's axis, the northern hemisphere receives the Sun's rays more directly as we approach the summer solstice. That means more energy from the Sun is pouring into the northern hemisphere. Additionally, the northern hemisphere has a larger land mass than the southern hemisphere, and land warms up more quickly than water. So even though the Earth is further away from the Sun in the summer (due to its elliptical orbit) the land heavy northern hemisphere heats up more quickly and as a result, the Earth as a whole is more than 4 degrees warmer in the summer than in the winter.

But when the Sun starts returning to the northern hemisphere, why does it take several months before the atmosphere starts warming up, and why does it stay warmer longer, i.e. even after we've passed the summer solstice? The answer is that the rise and fall of temperature depends on the difference between the absorption of heat energy from the Sun's rays minus the loss of radiant energy from the Earth's atmosphere. This is called the Earth's energy budget. After the winter solstice, the northern hemisphere starts receiving the Sun's rays more directly. As we approach the summer solstice, the northern hemisphere receives more and more heat energy until it reaches a point in time (in late winter) when the incoming energy is greater than the outgoing energy. On this date, temperatures began increasing; the equilibrium date is different for each latitude (sooner for southern locations). Even after the summer solstice (the day of the earth's greatest tilt towards the Sun), the northern hemisphere continues to receive more heat energy during the day then is lost at night. Temperatures continue to remain hot until late in the summer when the energy budget of the northern hemisphere drops into the red.

For the best in spring landscaping and masonry in the Yorktown Heights area contact the Turf Barbers

Saturday, December 3, 2016

Planting an Herb Garden

Herb gardens are sources of delightful and healthy produce and an attractive part ofthe outdoor landscape. Herbs can be planted in garden beds and or in containers and can also serve as attractive borders for hedges and flower gardens.

Most herbs like sunlight, but some, such as chervil, parsley, coriander, and vigorous herbs such as comfrey and lemon balm, do well in the sun or shade. So first off determine how much sunlight the various planting areas in your backyard get each day. Take a whole day and check on an hourly basis sunlight exposure of areas in your yard that are suitable for planting. Sun loving herbs require six to eight hours of sunlight each day; but you can also move herbs growing in containers from one sunny are to another as the light exposure changes throughout the day. Keep in mind that herb gardens close to the kitchen door are most convenient. They're easy to access and the savory scents of the herbs will wisp through the window, adding a pleasant fragrance to your cooking area.

Herbs grow best in a light soil that drains well and is easy to till. Seeds can be planted in furrows that are several inches deep, but fully grown herbs will need a minimum of eight inches of top soil to grow in. You can test drainage by running a hose for a few minutes and looking for puddles. You can change the constitution of the soil by adding clay, peat moss and fertilizer. Herbs like a moderate amount of fertilizer. Too much fertilization may weaken some herbs and cause plant disease.  Ideal soil Ph for herbs is around 6.5.

You can plant herbs indoors, directly outdoors, or purchase them from a nursery. Each option has its advantage and disadvantages depending on the type of herb.  Seeds of annual herbs (basil, coriander, dill and oregano) can be started indoors and grown year round or you can move them outdoor 5-10 weeks after planting. Perennial herbs, like chives, parsley, sage, sweet marjoram and thyme, can be started from seed but are often most conveniently purchased as young plants from a nursery. Because perennials grow for more than one season, it’s best to keep them outside in pots during the summer and bring them in before the first frost. A few herbs including rosemary, oregano, and mint are best propagated by cuttings or transplantation.


Herbs are delicate and require special care for winter survival. Ensure that your perennial herbs survive the cold weather by making certain they go into the winter healthy. Avoid late fall fertilizing or pruning. As soon as the ground freezes, spread a loose four inch mulch such as straw, boughs of an evergreen tree, oak leaves, etc. around the base of each plant. A few herbs, including oregano, lemon verbena, and rosemary, can't survive in the cold temperatures. Dig up plants such as these, replant them in containers, and take them indoors for the winter. Then replant them outdoors when the weather turns warm again in the spring.

For help with landscaping and landscape design in the Yortktown Heights and Westchester County and Putnam County, NY., call the Turf Barbers at 914 302 2469; 2929 Quinlan Street Yorktown Heights, NY 10598; http://www.theturfbarbers.com 

Sunday, October 9, 2016

Essential Facts to Remember When You Decide to Build a Bluestone Patio

Bluestone is an exquisite natural rock that makes patios, which are both durable and comfortable. The rock is especially well known for its silvery blue appearance. Bluestones also come in combinations of brown, tan, rust, green, and lilac. If you want a uniformly blue patio, you should order Select Blue rock, which includes shades of the stone's signature blue color only.

Before purchasing bluestone rock, decide what texture, shape, and patio edge style you desire. You have two texture choices, natural cleft or sawn thermal. Natural cleft rock is made from blocks of bluestone that are naturally hewn from the soil and then cleft along visible seams. The result are stones with a wavy soft texture. The thickness of each stone is approximate, i.e., they are non-gauged. One variation of natural cleft is called curly rippled. Unlike cleft rock, thermaled stones have identical gauged edges and a smooth even surface. Stone cutters create thermal texture by gauging the rocks to a certain thickness and then burning them. The heat causes the stones to bubble. When they are cool, loose flakes are removed, leaving a smooth even surface. 

Bluestones come in multiple shape options. The two main pattern possibilities are "ashler," and fieldstone. Ashler refers to a combination of artfully conjoined geometric shapes such as squares, rectangles, and polygons. Fieldstone, on the other hand, connotes arrangements of irregularly cut stones that are fit together in random patterns with spaces between the stones filled in with sand, moss, or other filler.

Patio edges can be raised or level with the ground. Making the patio raised can add distinction to the construction, but keep in mind that the edges will be visible to the public so you should select an appropriate edge style. If you want your edges to have a softer look, you might want to create chiseled or tumbled edges. If you want a more formal look, you may opt for thermaled edges.

Next decide if you want your patio to adjoin the house or sit apart in a more rustic nook of the backyard landscape. Patios adjoining the home act as an extensions of the house. They are convenient for entertaining. Patios separate from the home and placed in an intimate part of the backyard landscaping, can be quiet places where you and your guests can relax, converse,  and commune with nature.

Bluestone patios are easy to clean. Most of the time, all you need to do is scrub the surface with a soft brush and some soapy water. Tough stains can be removed with vinegar or lemon mixed with water. Every few years you might want to give your patio a power washing. Be sure to set the power washer on a medium setting. Cleaning the stone surface with the power washer set on high might leave swirly lines that can only be removed with an additional power washing.


Resources: Tops in patio building in Yorktown Heights, Westchester County and Putnam County, NY., call the Turf Barbers at 914 302 2469; 2929 Quinlan Street Yorktown Heights, NY 10598; http://www.theturfbarbers.com .

Saturday, August 20, 2016

Deck Staining Tips

Here are some useful best practice tips for staining your deck:

  1. Use the drop test to determine if your deck needs staining. Splash a little water on the deck. If the liquid collects into droplets that sit on the surface, then the current protection is adequate. On the other hand, if the water seeps into the wood, then the deck needs fresh protection. 
  2. Pick a stain that is appropriate for your deck. Each manufacturer uses their own classification system. Generally, stains vary  on a scale ranging from clear to opaque, which includes clear,  toner, semi transparent, semi solid, and solid. If your deck is fresh and young looking, then you should use a clear or toner stain. These allow the woods pattern and texture to show through. Toner is similar to clear except that it highlights the wood grain makings, If your deck is faded and aged then you should go with semi transparent or semi solid. The rule is as the stain becomes more opaque it  hides more of the wood patterns. If your deck is damaged, you should choose a solid stain. A totally solid stain will cover all the wood patterns but not its textures. When deciding on an appropriate solid stain color, consider the dominant colors in your backyard landscape. Usually but not always that's your home's siding color. Then choose the compliment of that color or another color that blends with it. 
  3. Deck preparation is very important. You should thoroughly clean the deck of molds, dirt, dust, and any stains. Most manufacturers that specialize in home improvement offer a variety of deck cleansing agents. Some specialize in stripping the deck of previous stains. Choose the deck cleanser that meets your needs. New deck wood is covered with a factory finish that should be removed with the appropriate cleanser. Before starting, replace severely damaged boards, and sand down areas that are mildly damaged but repairable.
  4. Before staining, make sure the deck is totally dry (at least 48 hours if possible). Also check the weather conditions. Optimally you will want the stain to dry for at least 24 hours before the first rainfall. 
  5. Proper stain application is essential for producing the most attractive appearance. Use a natural bristle brush for oil based stains and synthetic bristle brushes for latex stains. Choose a day on which the temperature is between 50 degrees and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Don't apply the stain in the direct sunlight. If you will be staining a large area that requires using more than one gallon container, mix the stain together to ensure consistency. As you apply the stain, make sure the leading edge is wet so you are applying wet into wet. Apply only one coat of oil stain onto new decks. If your deck is made of composite wood, follow the manufacturers instructions. Avoid over-application of stain as this will result in excess drying time and a surface coat that cracks or peels when the wood is exposed to moisture. 
  6. Apply the drop test once a year to determine if your deck needs re-staining. 
Resources: For the best outdoor and landscape masonry work in Westchester County and Putnam County, NY., call the Turf Barbers at 914 302 2469; 2929 Quinlan Street Yorktown Heights, NY 10598; http://www.theturfbarbers.com for the tops in back yard landscaping.
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Monday, July 11, 2016

Tips for Buildinhg an Attractive Backyard Patio



You can build your outdoor patio ,and there are many helpful online articles that will guide you through the process. Below we have culled some of the best patio building tips from the web. 

 Before you begin to build consider these professional design tips. 

1) Build an attractive patio that is stylistically harmonious with the style of your home. Avoid automatically building your patio in a square design; odd shaped and circular shaped patios are also attractive. Especially avoid laying down a big slab outside your back door. Ask yourself what you will be using the patio for and let this suggest your shape. For example, if you will be entertaining guests on your patio, remember that people at parties like to break off into small cozy groups and then move from group to group.  So build a patio that contains intimate nooks. Also don't merely build an extension to your house. Let your outdoor patio connect with your yard's natural beauty. Steps that lead down to your lawn or outdoor water feature invite guests to intimately commune with your backyard landscaping.  
   
2)   Build your patio on a part your yard where there are no buried electrical wires or tree roots that will disrupt the stonework. Make the grade level but with a small slope that will permit the groundwater to drain away from your home. Make the hole for your patio wider than the size of the planned stonework so you create an attractive border that will support the stones and keep them in place.
3)     Every type of patio stone has its pluses and minuses. Flagstone, for example, comes in a variety of colors. A flagstone patio has narrow packed joints that allow the water to percolate down to ground level instead of running off. The finish of a flagstone patio is durable, sip resistant, and long lasting. Pavers come in a variety of colors and can be either factory manufactured or home-cut. They are relatively easy to lay out and easy to repair (just replace one broken paver at a time). Paver patios cost a bit more at the start, but have a reduced maintenance cost.
4)   If you are going to build a concrete patio, you should add a seam every 10' x 10'. An unbroken stretch of concrete larger than 10' x 10' will buckle or crack over time, usually because of the swelling and contraction of the underlying earth. Clay soils, for example, absorbs water and expands after a rain and then contracts when the weather dries.
5)    If you will be cutting your own pavers, use a cold chisel or wet saw. N cutting the stone, wear an approved dust mask or respirator (if dry cutting pavers).
6)     Keep in mind that parts of your patio construction must conform to municipal regulations. If you will be building a lattice roof, for example, the rafters (cross boards that hold the actual covering in place) and beams (side boards the rafters rest on) must be greater than a certain minimal sixe size. Consult a local landscaping company if you have any questions about your local municipal restrictions.  

Resources: For the best outdoor and landscape masonry work in Westchester County and Putnam County, NY., call the Turf Barbers at 914 302 2469; 2929 Quinlan Street Yorktown Heights, NY 10598; http://www.theturfbarbers.com for the tops in back yard landscaping.

Thursday, June 9, 2016

How to Protect Your Wood Deck



If you're planning to add a beautiful deck to your backyard, you'll want to take steps to ensure that it's beauty will last for many years.  Water, UV light, and wood destroying insects are natural enemies that will do their best to make untreated wood look terrible within 10 years. Water will rot the  wood. UV light will bleach it and give it an aged, unattractive appearance. Insects, which thrive best in a wet environment, will rot out the timber from within, weakening the  structural parts. You can take steps, however, to see that these natural disaster scenarios don't take place. 
To being with, protect your deck by using strong wood that is resistant to rot. Heartwood makes the best rot resistant decks. Redwood, Cyprus and Cedar are the wood species that most people use when they want to build a deck that will last. 
Once you've built your deck, apply a wood preservative. Wood preservatives seep into structure and protect it from insects. This class of chemicals are pesticides, so carefully follow the instructions on the label when using them. They can be toxic to humans when misapplied. 
The best defense against UV light and water is a coat of paint. However, even if you are going to paint your deck, you should still protect it underneath the first coat.  A varnish or wood seal will protect your wood against water intrusion, but the varnish will provide additional protection against UV rays. If you add paint above this protective coat, the wood will be safe as long as the paint job holds. 
If you aren't planning to paint your deck, you should add varnish or a wood seal every year. There are many inexpensive but effective wood seals and varnishes and one container will cover a wide area of the wood's surface area. 
By protecting your deck, as needed, you can keep your outdoor structure looking good for longer than 10 years. Since you or your landscaper worked hard to install the outdoor feature, you will certainly want to put in the effort to see that it looks in top condition for many years to come. If you prefer, ask your deck installer to provide the necessary upkeep and restoration for you. 

Resources: For the best in outdoor deck care in Westchester County and Putnam County, NY., call the Turf Barbers at 914 302 2469; 2929 Quinlan Street Yorktown Heights, NY 10598; http://www.theturfbarbers.com for the tops in back yard landscaping.

Wednesday, April 20, 2016

Project to Beautify Your Backyard




  You can beautify your back yard landscape by turning unsightly tree stumps into stump planters. Stump planters are tree stumps that are hollowed out, filled with soil, and then seeded. The resultant mini-garden can have any number of appearances, depending on the color of the tree stump and the types of plants that grow in the garden.   Below is a description of the essential steps you must follow to create an attractive tree stump planter:

1.    Hollow out a bowl in the wood to a depth of three to six inches depending on the type of plant you are growing. Annuals, which have shallow roots, only require three to four inches. Six inches is sufficient depth for most other plants. In most instances you should leave two to three inches of wood around the perimeter, unless you want a smaller bowl.  
2.    To make the bowl, use a pick ax (mattock), hand ax, or other sharp tool and start in the center. If the wood is soft you can use the claw end of a hammer or blunt edge of an ax to remove the material.If the wood is hard, you might consider putting some potted plants on top of the stump. Over time the water that drips from the pots will rot out the top of the stump, making it easier to hollow out.
3.    Use a hand drill or electric drill to add drain holes. Drill out and down from the bottom of the basin you have created. The holes tend to clog, so you can prevent this by adding a layer of small pebbles in the bottom of the hollowed out receptacle.

4.   An optional step you can take to improve the project is to cover the stump's bark with epoxy. This will prevent the bark from falling off, and thereby preserve the stump's natural beauty. 
5.    Now you are ready to add potting soil.  Add a mixture such as Mel mix, 1/3 Vermiculite, 1/3 Peat (or Coir), and 1/3 well-blended compost. The compost provides all the needed nutriments so no need to fertilize over the summer. Just add more compost as needed.
6.    Now add your choice of seeds. You can use seedlings, nursery plants, bulbs, or plain seeds.

Resources: For the best in landscaping projects in Westchester County and Putnam County, NY., call the Turf Barbers at 914 302 2469; 2929 Quinlan Street Yorktown Heights, NY 10598; http://www.theturfbarbers.com for the tops in back yard landscaping.